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It
is a good plan to excavate the soil to a greater depth in
the middle than at the sides, a shallow ledge round the
margin will keep the roots of the water plants from
spreading towards the walls. Most lilies and other aquatics
look better if kept somewhat in the centre of artificial
basins, and are more effective if entirely surrounded by
water than crowded against the walls and
corners.
Deep tanks have a further
disadvantage in that they are seldom properly filled.
Nothing looks more unsightly than a tank in which the water
scarcely rises half way. The walls cast a heavy shadow over
the surface, the plants are unhealthy, and the water
cold.
Besides, the lily tank should form a
definite note in the scheme of design, a center which
inspires the arrangement of plant grouping around. Sunken
water surfaces are useless as reflectors, and are lacking in
those color values which in sunlight are so precious. Even
in quite large tanks the distance between the top of the
kerb and the water line should not be more than two feet, in
smaller basins twelve inches is sufficient.
If the ground surrounding sunk tanks
has an upward slope it should be laid out in a succession of
terraces. This
is especially important where there is a wide margin of
turf.
Nothing
looks worse than a grass slope falling abruptly to the
water's edge. Such an arrangement is fraught with danger,
and the use of a mowing machine is difficult.
By
connecting the various levels by short flights of steps, and
substituting walls of rough stone or brick for the grass
slopes, a much better effect will be gained.
A
skilled mason is not required to construct such walls, which
may be built of the cheapest materials, the crevices
furnished with wall and rock plants.
In garden courts abrupt changes
of level are to be preferred to monotonous slopes and easy
gradients, we gain then the charm of variety, and open up
endless possibilities in the way of color and shadow
effects.
In
more elaborate lily tanks steps should actually lead into
the water itself. A flight of broad, but shallow, stone
stairs at either end of the tank cannot fail to greatly
enhance its beauty. Their presence is a direct invitation to
view the lilies more closely, a note of intimacy, which
suggests that the water garden is made for our particular
pleasure and interest.
High
copings and balustrades act as barriers, and prevent the
jeweled water surface from forming any close relationship
with its surrounding features. Some may argue that steps
leading into water, even continuing their way beneath the
surface, are ridiculous, in this case, however, picturesque
value far over-rules any worthwhile
principles.
We
have only to remember a flight of weed-stained steps, the
boat landing on some sleepy quay side, or the broad and
spacious stairway, white and sunlit, which dips into a
Venetian lagoon, to appreciate the idea.
Tanks
which form part of some architectural scheme
should
be planted only with the best kinds of Water Lilies, whose
formality and clearness of outline exactly fits them for
such places. In the beds around should be grouped plants of
stately foliage and somewhat stiff habit - Cannas, admirable
both as to their well shaped leaves and gorgeous flower
spikes, Madonna Lilies, Salvia patens, Funkias, especially
F.sieboldi, Irises of sorts, and the cool green of
Harts-tongue.
Free
growing herbaceous plants must be excluded in this instance;
however well adapted they may be as a setting for the quiet
pool in the homely garden, they will be as weeds in the
almost tropical brilliance of the formal Lily
Court.
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